A blue rock sits in a reddish basin, Painted Hills, Oregon

Photos of Dirt: Capturing Colors in the John Day…

When a window of warm clear weather arrived in late winter of this year, I jumped at the chance to drive to central Oregon and spend some time in the John Day Fossil Beds National Monument taking photos, exploring, and taking in a more comprehensive view of the national monument.

Located in northern central Oregon, the John Day Fossil Beds National Monument is huge, a sweeping landscape of rolling hills through the semi-desert shrublands of the John Day River valley. It’s also home to some really unique and interesting rock formations and geology. And not a lot of people. It’s the type of place where you can drive for hours and not see another vehicle. But 90% of the cars you do pass will give you a wave.

During my visit, I really enjoyed watching the morning/evening light accentuate the rolling hills and grasses, highlighting some beautiful shapes, colors, and textures.

Although my camera and lens were pointed skyward at night, the unique dirt and mud in the region made me want to point my lens straight downward during the day. What follows are a handful of my photos from the area, an exploration of the textures, colors, and patterns of the soil in the John Day Fossil Beds National Monument as seen during twilight, the golden hour, and even in the midday sun.

So, without further ado, here are some photos of dirt from the John Day Fossil Beds National Monument.

It ain’t easy being blue, Painted Hills
With its blue streaks, the rock in this gulley looked completely out of place. It was also the only rock of this size for at least 50 feet, maybe more. The contrasting colors were irresistible to me.
Red, white, and blue, Painted Hills
These mud cracks didn’t benefit from any sort of direct lighting, giving the mud muted, cooler hues.
Soft light on mud cracks, Painted Hills
I really liked this scene because it illustrated how a little lighting could completely change the perceived color of the ground. The morning light warms the ground in the bottom half of the frame, while the shadows in the upper part of the frame stay cooler. Note the tiny green blades of grass bottom left, bravely trying to eke out a life.
Cracks and ribbons, Painted Hills
I really liked the smoothed over, yet granular look of the dry caked mud, with its ribbons of rust color.
Zig zags, Painted Hills
Morning light filters through the undulating folds of the Painted Hills.
Popcorn floor
The crunchy but perfect mud crust reminded me of popcorn ceilings. Here it can be seen in the morning twilight, prior to daybreak.
Morning light on the Painted Hills, 2025
This photo is a little different from others in the collection, in that this is a much wider photo.
All alone
A lone rock sits on the steep flank of a red hill, in central Oregon’s Painted Hills.
Rust stains in the Painted Hills
The texture looks similar to that of “Popcorn floor,” but the color is completely different. The scene reminded me of a gritty industrial building with rust on it and maybe a little graffiti.

STEVE in Oregon – A (long) look back at…

On June 1, 2013, after a few weeks of sporadic aurora activity, I had decided to drive up to Mt Hood’s Trillium Lake to take some photos of the sunset, twilight, and night sky. Over the previous year I had noticed a steady uptick in the number of photographers that would set up along the shores at the lake, but this particular day/night was still in the halcyon pre-Instagram days, where the odds were, if other photographers were there, I would likely know them, and there was plenty of lake shore to spread out and work together.

Shockingly, I did not own a smart phone at the time. I know, I know…the times were different. About an hour after sunset, my wife, who was at home and had an Internet connection, called me to tell me that the KP had jumped up. I immediately looked to the north, and, could just make out faint glimmers of aurora activity in the blue twilight sky.

I settled in and started snapping photos. As the sky got darker the show became more and more clear: Red-pink vertical columns danced above Yellow-green blurs of aurora low on the horizon.

And then something strange happened.

To the northwest of Trillium Lake is an unnamed hill that’s about 500 to 1,000 feet higher than the lake itself. Slowly, over a couple of minutes, a bright band of glow worm-like light grew out of the hill and began to arc across the sky over the lake, so high that it was nearly touching the sky’s zenith. I angled my 14mm lens upward, trying to capture the full display, but it was impossible. I struggled to point my camera straight up; my ballhead and a knob or two on my tripod simply weren’t allowing me to do it. I could’ve reconfigured my center column to get the angle I wanted, but in the dark with limited time I decided to just shoot what I could.

What I didn’t know at the time was that I’d just met STEVE (strong thermal emission velocity enhancement), years before STEVE was even STEVE.

And in just 5 minutes, the phenomenon was gone. The strong arc expanded, wavered a bit like it was flapping in the wind, and then it broke up, leaving the aurora display much lower on the horizon to continue on strong.

Strong thermal emission velocity enhancement (STEVE) appears over Trillium Lake and Mt Hood, Oregon.
Strong thermal emission velocity enhancement (STEVE) appears over Trillium Lake and Mt Hood, Oregon, June 1, 2013. To my knowledge this is the only photo I know of that features STEVE in Oregon.

The above panorama was assembled from 4 or 5 photos to give a greater field of view of the scene. I thought the result was better than any of the frames individually, as I was able to show the lake, a tiny sliver of actual foreground in the lower left corner, a nearby tree (on the left), and then a good amount of sky. (Just to illustrate, Polaris can be found about 4/5ths up in the center of the photograph, and Polaris is about 45 degrees above the horizon. I’m guessing my final result was 60 or more degrees of sky, along with foreground just a few feet in front of me.

I put together a quick gif that shows some of STEVE’s movement over a minute or two.
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